I wish that I was able to trade places with John Galliano for a day and take on his view on the kernels of stylistic virtue. Going through Style.com prior to to this post, I stifled a laugh (I'm supposed to be hard at work in the office, it figures)after reading Sarah Mower's critique on Gallion's creations, quoting:
'Decidedly, though, this was Galliano in general-service mode rather than personal fantasyland. Chop off the heads, as it were, and what was left was a wearable collection that will be legible to all women who crave a straight-up injection of high-octane glamour as an antidote to gloom.
Nothing, then, either to scare (not even the shoes, which were stack-heeled and supernormal) or to set new agendas—but simply a demonstration of Galliano's increasing facility for running up money-spinning ready-to-wear calculated to read across continents.'
The decision to create a fashion blog in the midst of Fall/Winter '08 Fashion Week across New York, London, Milan & Paris isn't wise when one hasn't enough time for the constant updates. There were so many designers I wanted to post on from New York (DVF, Michael Kors & Peter Som especially) and London (Emma Cook & Christopher Kane). Unfortunately I've just started working on a new program entitled, Malaysia My Second Home, thus I'm unable to dawdle around on my fashion interest too much.
Milan Fashion Week started yesterday and dare I say, it usually never gets any better than what is shown there. What gets me excited though, is the unveiling of Alberta Ferretti's collection. I've got such a soft spot for her designs because it never strays too far from pretty, and that, is the quintessence of what I look for in clothing. Granted my biased views when it comes to Ferretti, despite her departure from fluttery chiffon this season, she still excels. The look? A coming of age sorts - a young girls's debut into womanhood, strutting the world's runway with graceful confidence.
My interest in fashion never really blossomed until I started university in Perth 3 years back when I traded in Cleo-type magazines for Harpers Bazaar & Vogue. Thus, there was a lot of catching up to do! Back then I had only heard of and seen works of the big names like Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld & John Galliano etc. So when I read Rachel Zoe's style totem, Style A to Zoe: The Art of Fashion, Beauty & Glamour, I was lost when she wrote just how much she loved Halston, that she grew up admiring his work and achieved a milestone in her career when asked to be creative advisor for the house for their huge comeback come Fall '08. Just who is Halston? After some Googling, I learn that Roy Halston Frowick was the designer back in the 1970's for the young and famous socialites of Studio 54. He passed away in 1990.
The label's new creative director, Marco Zanini (former right hand of Donatella Versace) showed the Halston devotees what they came to see and expect from the label - signatures such as the shirtdresses, tent dresses as well as separates with a 'soft swing'. The collection presented was enough to swing my vote. I thought there was a very Rachel Zoe touch to the whole look; loose fitting and unstructured pieces that look effortlessly chic are common styles that Zoe adorns on her celebrity clienteles. Needless to say, I'll be keeping a close watch on how Zanini plans to take the label forward :)
London Fashion Week's already on its way and I'm still stuck reporting on NY's shows!
Max Azria is at his prime this season. I feel that he doesn't get enough credit for his work, often overshadowed by bigger names who don't live up to all the media hype. This season, he exemplified versatility by executing completely different collections for his own BCBG, MaxAzria & his newly acquired label, Herve Leger.The collections were absolute hits, and as each model strutted down the runway, progressively unveiling the collection, I could only gape in awe.
For BCBG, each look was cinched at the waist with a leather belt that is surely going to be the trend du jour. The collection epitomized the 40's look ala Katherine Hepburn, stained from a palette of pale hues that convey pristine girlishness.
When it came to reinventing the classic bandage dress, Azria excelled in wrangling his style into Leger's. The result? A decadent yet classy sex appeal. I love the addition of the nude gloves, which again, is very 40's.
For his collection of the same name, MaxAzria, there was darker (in terms of color used, the studded belts, and tomboyish ease of clothing) of the lady. I say lady, because he manages to pull of the whole innerwear as outerwear gimmick and not come off as tacky. Negligees, bustiers and corsets peeked out subtly throughout the collection, which otherwise hosted practical pieces for women on the go.
The usual big names strutted their Fall/Winter '08 collections down the runway the past week, and whilst most of the creations blew me away, some were just too bland for my taste. It may be the fact that we don't have the matter of course 4 season climate in Malaysia, that I tend to overlook the finer details of a well cut suit, trench and anything that comes from an animal (fur, feathers...).
Overall there was a decidedly harder edge following Spring/Summer's laid back styles proceeding towards designs of regimental, tailored masculinity. This came through most prominently from Calvin Klein, 3.1 Phillip Lim & Marc Jacobs (I had higher hopes for his collection).
Both Ralph Lauren & Carolina Herrera swapped New York City for the country. Their million dollar outback retreats were a focal point of reference, which turned out pretty superb and wearable amidst the backdrop of a bustling city, if you're not one to rough it out in the countryside.
Fall/Winter collections wouldn't be complete with a few luscious fur cover-ups. PETA may be pulling their hair out over these outtakes, but one cannot deny the aura of glamour a piece of fur exudes in a sweeping presence. My favourite picks are Vera Wang, Michael Kors & Oscar de la Renta.
Louis Vuitton Commercial; therein lies the paradox - they lead the avante garde of fashion since their establishment, late 19th century. Over time LV's cultivated their brand and leveraged on selling the image of exuberant jet-setting lifestyles attained only by society's most elite. Since Bernard Arnault took over the company, he has diverged the brand and lost homage to its heritage by going mass, ie: commercial. He never cared for fashion, for he is first and foremost a businessman. He didn't make it on Forbes as the world's 7th richest man by preserving the qualities that made their goods so desirable to begin with. How does a brand that claims exclusivity be so omniscient and accessible?
On another note though, I like the execution of the ad. Its revelations on journey (they started out selling luggage trunks for travelers back when automobiles were first invented which thus led to the rapid rise of travel) are perceptive although one can argue that the mood set is over-styled as its subjects stare aimlessly into space.
It's only the first luxury label ever to venture into the realm of television advertising. This move speaks volumes when even the The New York Times reported it in the Media & Advertising section, although clearly, it is a fashion-worthy piece, or at least a business one. I bet my two cents that this is the start of what will become di rigeur marketing exercise amongst the industry's top labels who wish to stay ahead in the fashion rat race.
i dream of being whisked back to the 1940's when fashion 'twas a restrained femininity that's demure yet flirty. a cinched waist, a peasant blouse & close-fitted skirt. sew me
